How to: DIY Bridgeport Power Draw Bar! Widget85

Using Linear Bearings to make an inexpensive Power Draw Bar for Bridgeport milling machine using an impact wrench! DIY Kit: (includes machined parts, springs, bearings,…


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How to: DIY Bridgeport Power Draw Bar! Widget85

Comments 26

  1. I picked up one of these from Johns website. its awesome! super easy to install though I was installing it on a Supermax so I needed to add some metric hardware, no big deal. works great. plus it came with some tool box stickers. I'm glad its so easy to pop on as I will have to pop it off to put on the long drawbar when I use my right angle head. 2 thumbs up on a great product. well worth the price to buy it built as I'm too busy to build one myself.

  2. jesus christ people please stop using Harbor Freight garbage and projects Jesus Christ the kind of shit is destroying America I'll pay ten times would anything cost on Harbor Freight just out of pure principle

  3. Why doesn't any one every use a electric driver/impact for these. My air compressor sucks so I use it little as possible. I know it would be harder to figure out the control but no air, that would make it so worth doing. As a test I tried 2 different electric impact drivers, a small porter cable and a larger rigid just hand holding them and they both performed well. I also tried my porter cable drill with the torque adjusted lower so it would not over tighten the draw bar and it worked well also. I am rebuilding a 1961 bridge port so I'm going that route, electric. I might try a power supply to replace the batteries and a remote mounted trigger switch or just leave the batteries in place as they should last a long time and a remote cable operated control.

  4. I built my own design and here are the tings I did and learned: 1. I liked and used the linear bearing idea but thought it should be tougher to withstand torque so used 25 mm but then had to have a separate spring assembly as too large to find springs that slid over 2. the collects may not pop out if the quill is not locked 3. the harbor freight paddle is too weak so I made a steel one so handle doesn't break it

  5. to tune it down you could use a airpressure regulator they use for paintguns , for eazier reach you might add a 2nd bar pointing down from the first so you dont have to reach as high

  6. You should make the power drawbar (minus impact wrench) plus a power drill adapter for the knee as a contribution for the what's in your toolbox giveaway. It is not an item where there will be duplicates like micrometers, calipers, steel scales, etc. I looked at the price you are charging for the drawbar and I say that is a good price. Obviously you cant do it for free.

  7. Hey John, maybe it's a limitation of the Tormach and that's why you haven't done it, but if you set your non-engagement feed rate on the linking tab to something closer to your max feedrate on your Tormach, all those repositioning moves will be way faster. By default they are the same as the feedrate, which is what was running in on this job by the look of it.

  8. John,

    One of your best videos in my opinion! I usually love the music and fast forward but the quiet and real time speed was a nice change. Also loving the clean annotations with your cutting recipes. Thanks for keeping us interested and trying new things! Good luck with your move!


  9. Zanesville! You have to be kidding me! I have been watching your videos like crazy and I didn't know you were in my hometown. Your name NYC had me confused even though I seen the video where you imported a zane state logo. I thought it was just a coincidence but then on another video you guys mentioned classes in zanesville. Wish I wasn't moving or I would have taken them. Keep up the great fusion modeling and CAM stuff.

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